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Bourgogne: A Journey into the Heart of Terroir and Tradition
Bourgogne is more than just a renowned wine region in France; it's a tapestry woven with centuries of history, shaped by unique geological conditions, and celebrated for its unwavering commitment to terroir. More commonly known traditionally as Burgundy, especially to the English-speaking world, it has now become standard to use its French name Bourgogne when speaking of the region and its wines. So, from now on when visiting your local wine shop and you notice Bourgogne on the label, you will know it’s from “Burgundy”.
The relatively small region of Bourgogne, located in east-central France, has achieved legendary status producing some of the most sought-after and expensive wines in the world. Its fame rests on a deep understanding of the land, a dedication to only two primary grape varieties, and a winemaking philosophy that emphasizes elegance, nuance, and expression of place. Unlike Bordeaux, which is dominated by châteaux (wine estates) and blends, Bourgogne is defined by its intense focus on single grape varietals and the profound expression of specific vineyard plots (climats).
A Journey Through Time: The Rich Tapestry of Bourgogne Wine History
Winemaking in the Bourgogne region extends back to the Roman era. Vineyards were established as early as the 1st century CE, laying the foundation for a tradition that would endure for millennia. During the Middle Ages it was Christian monasteries that truly shaped the identity of Bourgogne wine, with further influences later by Bourgogne nobility and Napoleon himself.
Monastic Influence: Beginning about the 6th century, Benedictine and Cistercian monks were meticulously cultivating vineyards and most importantly documenting their observations of the land. They were pioneers in identifying the subtle differences in soil and microclimate and how they influenced the quality of the grapes. This meticulous study of terroir – the complete natural environment affecting a vineyard, including soil, climate, and topography – became a cornerstone of Bourgogne winemaking. The monks' extensive land holdings and knowledge enabled them to refine viticultural practices and establish a hierarchy of vineyard sites, which provides the foundation for the classification system we know today. For example, Clos de Vougeot, a walled vineyard established by the Cistercians in the 12th century remains to this day and is a testament to their enduring legacy.
Dukes of Burgundy and Royal Patronage: In the 14th and 15th centuries, the Dukes of Burgundy played a significant role in shaping the region's wine industry. In fact, the then-Duke of Burgundy, Philip the Bold (Philippe le Hardi), decreed in the year 1395 that only Pinot Noir could be cultivated for red wine and all Gamay vines were to be pulled up…and to this day Pinot Noir remains the predominant red wine variety throughout Bourgogne! The opulent court and lavish banquets by the nobility elevated Bourgogne wines to international acclaim. Further, the rivalry between the powerful Dukes and the Kings of France helped to fuel the region's reputation, as both sought to showcase their respective wines.
French Revolution and Fragmentation: The French Revolution brought about significant changes in land ownership, namely due to a new inheritance law instituted by Napoleon in 1804. The law required that an estate must be divided equally versus inherited only by the family’s eldest male child. This was considered more “democratic” and remains the catalyst for the fragmentation of Bourgogne’s vineyards to this day. The vineyards that were confiscated from the monks and Bourgogne’s nobility were, over time, repeatedly divided into smaller and smaller plots of land. Thus, there are vineyards in Bourgogne today with multiple owners, even down to ownership of just a few rows of vines. While vineyard ownership in Bourgogne can be rather complex, it has contributed to the region's diversity, as each producer has the opportunity to express their unique interpretation of the terroir.
Appellation System: In 1935 the French government created an official organization to oversee and regulate the nation’s wine industry, known today as the Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité or INAO. It is this government organization under the Ministry of Agriculture that is responsible for implementing and regulating France’s Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system for wine. This AOC system defines and enforces French wine regulations, to include (but not limited) to an appellation’s geographic boundaries, permitted grape varieties, vineyard management, and winemaking practices. This system is strictly enforced and aims to protect the authenticity and quality of Bourgogne and French wines writ large!
Shaping the Vines: The Geography and Climate of Bourgogne
Bourgogne's geography and climate play crucial roles in shaping the character of its wines. Located at a relatively northerly latitude (approximately 47°N), Bourgogne experiences a continental climate with warm summers and cold winters. To maximize sun exposure, the vineyards are planted on east- or southeast-facing slopes to allow the grapes to ripen fully. Vineyard aspect to the sun is crucial in order to compensate for the relatively cooler/marginal climate at this latitude.
Bourgogne's continental climate also brings challenges, such as spring frosts that can damage the delicate buds, hailstorms that can decimate entire harvests, and heavy rain that can dilute flavors and increase disease risk. These climatic hazards are a major reason why there can be so much variation between Bourgogne vintages. The Saône River, which flows along the eastern edge of the region, can help moderate the temperature and provides crucial humidity. It also contributes to the formation of morning mists that can help to prevent frost damage.
The Bourgogne wine region is typically divided into five main sub-regions. Each of these sub-regions possess its own unique characteristics, influenced by variations in soil, climate, and winemaking traditions (listed in order from north to south):
- Chablis
- Côte de Nuits
- Côte de Beaune
- Côte Chalonnaise
- Mâconnais
The Stars of the Show: Two Noble Grapes
Winemaking in Bourgogne revolves around two primary grape varieties: Pinot Noir for red wines and Chardonnay for white wines. While other grape varieties are permitted in certain appellations (i.e. Aligoté for whites), it is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that reign supreme.
Pinot Noir: The undisputed king of Bourgogne red wines, it is known for its elegant structure and delicate aromas of red fruit and earthy notes. It can produce red wines ranging from light and fruity to deeply complex and age-worthy, depending on the specific terroir and winemaking practices.
Chardonnay: The queen of Bourgogne white wines, it is known for producing a wide range of aromas, from crisp citrus and green apple to tropical fruit and nutty expressions. It too can vary significantly depending on the terroir and winemaking practices. Bourgogne in particular is renowned for producing complex, steely, minerally Chardonnay whites with excellent aging potential.
Aligoté: Though lesser-known and playing a smaller role in the region, Aligoté is appreciated for producing crisp and refreshing white wines with citrus and floral notes. For example, it is the principal grape for the regional AOC Bourgogne Aligoté and may also be used in Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wine.
Gamay: More popularly associated with the Beaujolais wine region (which is technically a part of Bourgogne), Gamay is still cultivated in some Bourgogne vineyards with a particular presence in the Mâconnais and in broader regionally-classified AOCs.
Terroir: The Soul of Bourgogne
The concept of terroir may be more central to Bourgogne than perhaps any other wine region. It is the belief that a specific climat or vineyard parcel – encompassing its soil composition, subsoil, position on the slope, exposure to the sun and wind, local climate variations, and altitude – imparts a unique, recognizable character to the wine produced from it, especially when planted with the most appropriate variety and managed traditionally.
The defining manifestation of terroir in Bourgogne is the climat. These are precisely defined vineyard parcels recognized for the distinctive wines they produce, many of which with names dating back centuries. In 2015, the climats of Bourgogne were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, thus acknowledging their unique historical, cultural, and geographical significance. To understand Bourgogne means understanding the principle that a wine from one climat will taste differently from a wine whose grapes were cultivated in an adjacent climat – even when those wines were made by the same producer, using the same grape, and in the same year.
It’s the complex mosaic of soils and geology throughout Bourgogne that arguably are the most critical factors in shaping the region's wines. Subtle shifts in these layers, even if only just a few feet, can profoundly influence how a vine grows, how its grapes ripen, and consequently, the unique character of the final wine. For example:
Limestone Dominance: The bedrock of Bourgogne is primarily limestone, deposited millions of years ago when this part of France was submerged under a shallow sea. Limestone is a relatively soft rock that is made from tiny sea creatures and their shells. When these sea creatures perish, they settle on the sea bottom and over millions of years are effectively compressed into rock. Some of the properties of limestone, relative to grapevines, is that it provides excellent drainage, can help to “condition” a soil for plants, and provides a mineral character that is frequently attributed to many Bourgogne wines.
Marl Variations: Overlying limestone are layers of marl...so what is marl? It is a soil type made of a mixture of primarily clay and calcium carbonate (think of this as a chemical compound from tiny sea creatures). The proportion of clay and calcium carbonate in the marl soil varies across the Bourgogne region, and depending on this proportion, will influence water drainage and nutrient availability for the vines. For example, a higher proportion of clay will result in greater water retention in the soil (this can help in periods of heat and drought, but can be adverse during extended wet periods). Vineyards with higher clay content in the soil tend to produce richer, more powerful wines, whereas those with higher limestone/calcium carbonate content yield more nuanced and mineral-driven wines.
Specific Soil Sub-Types: Within these broader aforementioned categories, there are specific soil sub-types that can further differentiate a terroir. For example, the northern Bourgogne wine region contains a Kimmeridgian soil (from approximately 150 million years ago) – a unique soil type rich in fossilized oyster shells – which is the reason why Chablis wines have such a distinctive mineral and saline character.
The Appellation System: Classifying Bourgogne’s Vineyards
The meticulous classification of Bourgogne vineyards into Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Village, and Regional appellations reflect the recognition of the subtle, yet significant differences in soil composition and their impact on wine quality and character. Bourgogne’s vineyard classification hierarchy is presented below, from highest to lowest…and also generally reflecting highest to lowest in both wine quality and price:
Grand Cru: This is the pinnacle of Bourgogne’s classification hierarchy. Grand Cru represents specific, named vineyard sites – in other words, the most exceptional climats – that produce extraordinarily complex and balanced wines with excellent aging potential. Except for the Grand Cru vineyard sites in Chablis, the region’s other Grand Cru vineyards are all located in the famous Côte d'Or.
Regarding the wine label, only the specific Grand Cru vineyard name will be on the label, for example Chambertin, Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, etc. This being the case, it's a worthwhile endeavor to learn the names of the Grand Cru vineyards. That said, the label will also have the words “Grand Cru”, so look for this too.
Premier Cru (or 1er Cru): This is second in Bourgogne’s classification hierarchy. It represents a specific, named vineyard that is recognized for superior quality wines within a commune (aka village). So, in addition to a recognized vineyard name, the commune’s name will also appear on the label preceding the vineyard name. Admittedly, this can be confusing for those unfamiliar with Bourgogne. Some advice to keep in mind:
The inclusion of a commune’s name on the wine label is an important differentiator from Grand Cru, since a Grand Cru wine label will only include the Grand Cru vineyard name and no commune name. So again, it’s a good idea to become familiar with the Grand Crus.
Communes have made this a bit more complicated by appending the name of a Grand Cru vineyard located within it's boundaries to form the commune name...likely as a way to associate the prestige of the Grand Cru with the commune. For example, “Gevrey-Chambertin” is the name of a commune in Côte d'Or; the name includes the Grand Cru vineyard name “Chambertin”. Don’t be fooled thinking this is a Grand Cru wine, though it's understandable given the Grand Cru vineyard name is included.
To make this even more confusing, there are also some Grand Cru vineyards with hyphenated names, such as Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, etc. So if you thought to key on the hyphenation as a way to differentiate a commune from a vineyard...well, it won't work. Again, it's a good idea to learn the names of the Grand Crus.
If ever in doubt, remember to look for the words "Premier Cru" or "1er Cru" on the label. As with Grand Cru, these are required to be on the label.
Village: Third in Bourgogne’s classification hierarchy, this classification represents a wine that is of a typical character of the vineyards in a village (aka commune). In this classification - different from Premier Cru - only the village name will appear on the label (no vineyard name). To reference the previous example, the name “Gevrey-Chambertin” on a wine label (recall this is the village/commune name) with no indication of a vineyard means the wine is a Village wine. Village classified wines are neither “Grand Cru” or “Premier Cru/1er Cru”, so these words will be absent from the label.
Regional: Finally, we come to the fourth classification in Bourgogne’s hierarchy. This is the least place-specific and thus last classification in the hierarchy. It represents wines that are consistent with the general character of the Bourgogne region writ large. These wines may source grapes from any designated Regional vineyard(s) throughout the Bourgogne appellation…so these will be your “AOC Bourgogne” wines (the name “Bourgogne” will be included in the name). That said, it's confusion time again...
There are some areas within a broad Regional appellation that have been recognized as possessing more localized characteristics that can be attributed to the local terroir. Where this occurs, a complementary geographic name (denomination géographique complémentaire in French or DGC) may be approved, and this DGC name is appended to the Regional appellation name (e.g. “Bourgogne”). The DGC designation serves to highlight a wine with a unique local character from a broader, more generalized classification.
To elaborate a bit further, a DGC designated wine (e.g. "Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise", "Bourgogne Chitry", etc.) would source its grapes from the classified Regional vineyards within the delimited DGC area that was approved by INAO vice the broader Bourgogne region. Hopefully, this will help you differentiate a broader Bourgogne regional wine from a more specific Bourgogne DGC wine.
As with Village wines, Regional wines are neither "Grand Cru" or "Premier/1er Cru", so these words will be absent from the label.
Conclusion: A Region Rooted in Terroir
Bourgogne is more than just a wine region; it's a testament to the power of terroir and the enduring influence of history. From the monastic vineyards to the contemporary winemakers, the region has consistently prioritized the expression of place above all else. The delicate Pinot Noir and elegant Chardonnay grapes, nurtured by the diverse soils and shaped by the challenging climate, produce wines that are renowned for their complexity, nuance, and aging potential. Understanding the history, grapes, soils, and geography of Bourgogne is essential to appreciating the depth and authenticity of this iconic wine region and the enduring legacy of its terroir-driven wines. As you savor a glass of Bourgogne, remember that you are tasting centuries of tradition and a profound connection to the land.